Mingalarbar Myanmar: Shwedagon Pagoda and Bahan Market

The Shwedagon Pagoda is visible from almost anywhere in Yangon and is the most sacred of Buddhist sites in Myanmar. There has been a stupa on this hill for 2,600 years and this one towers at 99 metres. The story goes, that two merchant brothers met the Buddha who gave them eight of his hairs to take back to the King of Myanmar. The King enshrined them along with relics from three former Buddhas.

Over time the stupa has been rebuilt and expanded as a result of damage done from a series of earthquakes over the centuries, many of the them, including the worst were in the 18^th century. One of the queens during the 15^th century offered her weight in gold to be beaten into gold leaf to cover the stupa. Then not to be outdone, her son-in-law offered four times his and his wife’s combined weight.

In the early-18^th century the British took the pagoda following their first war with the Burmese, then again 30 years later and the soldiers pillaged and helped themselves to precious artefacts. They remained in control for 77 years and placed cannons around the outer wall.

Some damage occurred during Cyclone Nargis in 2008 when there was major destruction of the Ayeyarwady Delta. It has also been the site of political rallies. Aung San Suu Kyi spoke to massive crowds in 1988 demanding democracy from the military regime. 42 years earlier her father gave his speech of ‘Independence Now’, from British rule and in 2007 it was the centre of the monks’ protests.

The Shwedagon Pagoda was the centre of Yangon at one time. During British times the ruling Colonials built official buildings alongside the Yangon River, which is 5km away. The apartment is halfway between the two and I love walking in this area and seeing the shining gold spire from most roads and roundabouts.

As you approach the pagoda you climb the stairway of one of the four sweeping covered entranceways from either one of the cardinal directions. Each passageway is lined with opportunities to buy Buddhist mementos, bells, images and offerings.

This glorious structure glows during the early morning sunrise and the setting sun. At the peak of the stupa the gold is encrusted with 5548 diamonds, 2317 rubies, sapphires and other gems. Topping it all off is a 76-carat diamond.

Of course you have to dress appropriately covering shoulders and ankles, boys included.

In the area surrounding the pagoda is Bahan market, a bustling area with endless food stalls and vendors. There are business’ making and selling all sorts of Buddhist offerings, garments and images. There are many monks and nuns as the district has quite a few monasteries.