Market Visit to Thandwe

David and I have been to lovely Ngapali Beach a couple of times, but on this occasion Christopher came to visit so the two of us had a beach escape from Yangon.

Thandwe, which is the main town in the area has a bustling fresh market. Having not been there before, Christopher and I hopped on a local bus for a morning visit.

I've travelled on many forms of transport in Asia, but this experience was unique. It's anything from a 30-45min journey depending on the urgency of the driver, how many stops are made and how many passengers on board which may slow the trip over the hill.

These motorbike/bus/delivery vehicles are just converted 250cc 3-wheeled motorbikes and they will carry any load necessary. You just flag down one passing by and off you go. The tail board is up so it's not recommended to wear a knee length skirt (as I had done). Having longer legs might have been an advantage. But the locals wear their full length longyis and they manage quite well. Much more experienced at getting in and out than I am. 

The driver on the journey to Thandwe liked to drive slowly, just in case in didn't miss any business along the way. Boxes already on board were delivered to local roadside shops along the way. 

With people popping on and off we settled on 12 passengers, 6 aside on bench seats. Now that is a struggle climbing over the hill into the valley where Thandwe is built alongside a river. 

We made friends with a gentleman from Yangon who was doing business for a Thai pharmaceutical company and was very helpful with his limited English. 

We arrived in Thandwe wondering in which direction the market was. We were right outside but it was shuttered up. He ran back to tell us it was closed because of it being a 'full moon' day. And no one told us? (That is the hotel reception staff and the security man at the gate who helped us hail down the bus).

Our bus outside the closed market. 

Never mind, it would just have to be a wander around town and back to the beach. 

Riverside restaurant

Pagoda on the river bank

Cross roads 

The main street

They like wearing bike helmets here?

Hats for sale

The return bus driver was a bit of a speed freak. A kind man who stopped for his passengers for some fresh vegetable shopping, which he did for a couple of ladies. He picked up a mate, who played the part of conducter. We helped a very old lady off and on who gestured that her back and knee were a problem to her. A photo of her covered from head to toe in thanaka would have been an excellent photo opportunity, but too invasive, they don't like their photo being taken. 

The conductor helped load goods on board and under our seats that were hotel and shop deliveries, including toothpaste, tissues, soda, coffee and whiskey. 

The driver shopping for his passengers

Some of our load

Loading up

The self appointed conductor

A few shots from the bus.

Rice fields

House construction

Ladies on road construction

Making beach umbrellas

Thanaka

A common sight here is to see women, children and some men and boys with a yellowish-white paste on their faces. Women here have apparently used it for over 2,000 years.

This thanaka cream is applied daily mainly for cosmetic beauty and sun protection. It smells similar to sandalwood and is mostly applied in a circular patch on each cheek.

The trees come from Central Myanmar and need to be at least 35 years old to produce good quality cuttings. You can see the wood sold everywhere, especially local markets, as small individual logs or in bundles. A large log costs the equivalent of about $4.50. Generally the paste is freshly made, but it can be bought already done.

Thanaka cream is made from grinding the bark with a small amount of water on a circular stone that has a channel around the rim to drain the water. Then a small wooden spatula type tool is used to apply the cream.

 In these modern times cosmetic companies are now making products with thanaka for skin benefits like cleansing, rejuvenation, moisturising, a natural infusion of antioxidants and sunscreen.

18th Street

Downtown Yangon is designed in a grid with 5 long main roads intersected with about 57 shorter streets.

Bo Yar Nyunt Street is home.
Today my morning camera walk was to 18th Street, about 20mins from home. That's if I walk directly without stopping to make the most of photo opportunities.

These teen numbered streets are part of Chinatown.

This is a bustling street with much of it set up as a fresh produce market. Items mostly sold from stalls at foot level. The buildings are a hotch potch of ages from the 1920s, 1960s and some new construction today.

 

Young monk on his alms round

Apartments galore

Chicken anyone?

More fish?

Or, perhaps fish?

The purple and white vegetables are varieties of eggplant.

 The man in the check shirt delivers large blocks of ice, by hand. From where, I don't know. But it's very drippy when he drops it into the ceramic pot. The vendor then uses a very large pestle to pound and crush the ice so it can be added to drinks.

The gas bottle delivery guy

Some new friends that giggled their way alongside me. 

New construction squeezed in between some much older buildings.

Believe it or not, a school.

Trishaw and washing line above. 

Kheng Hock Temple
Dedicated to the sea goddess, Mazu. Built in 1903, replacing a wooden temple erected in 1861.